Meet La Belle Epoque Captain, Craig Jenner

Spending much of his life on the canals of France, British-born Captain Craig Jenner has always had a deep connection with the waterways of Burgundy. From his first job washing hotel barges to qualifying as a Traditional and Professional French Waiter, and now leading cruises aboard luxury hotel barge La Belle Epoque, his journey is one of passion, hospitality, and a love for slow travel. Here, Craig shares his story…

Sussex-born Craig is now Captain aboard hotel barge La Belle Epoque in Northern Burgundy

How long have you worked for EW?

I started working for European Waterways in February 2024, but have been an honorary ‘bargee’ since I was 10 years old!

Tell us about your love of the waterways

My parents moved to France when I was 10 and did so on a 30m barge. So, I was lucky to grow up on the French canals – mainly the Canal du Nivernais, as the barge was in Auxerre.

Auxerre - Remarkable France © Atout France Ooshot @WorldElse

What was your very first job?

My first job washing a hotel barge every other week on its turn-around in Auxerre. That was really just for pocket money. My first real job was as an apprentice waiter in the Brasserie Le Quai in Auxerre.

The French have a great apprenticeship system, and for two years I spent three weeks of the month doing practical hands-on work, and one week in hospitality school to learn the theory behind it. At the end of the two years, I passed my exam as a Traditional and Professional French Waiter. When I tell this to our American guests, they often find it difficult to understand that in France you can actually get a degree as a waiter!

What inspired you to become a barge Captain?

I’ve always loved the barging industry, but with young kids it’s not easy. Now that my children are a bit older (the twins from my first marriage are 18, and I also have a 9- and 7-year-old with my wife), I thought it was the right time to get back into the industry I love, and after a long discussion with my wife – I made the call! The Captain role just seemed logical to me after my experience in hospitality as manager of various pubs and restaurants.

What do you like most about being Captain of a barge?

The opportunity to meet and get to really get to know our amazing guests, which in turn ensures a more personalised service throughout their stay with us. The size of our barges plays a huge factor in this as La Belle Epoque hosts up to 12 guests. When I decided to go back to working on the water, I could have gone for a job as cruise director on bigger boats, but with those big boats and the numbers onboard, you can’t get to know everyone like we can.

Guests aboard La Belle Epoque, courtesy of Ms Suzanna Harper

What are you most proud of about working for EW?

At the end of a cruise, when a guest tells you that it has been the best vacation they have ever had. This makes me incredibly proud of my crew. So, I would say the crew and the level of service that we thrive for on a daily basis.

What makes your barge unique?

La Belle Epoque, in my opinion, is one of our most beautiful barges in the fleet (I might be a bit biased!) She features that wonderful, curved line that barges should have.

La Belle Epoque - cruising

Do you have a fond memory to share as barge Captain?

Most of last year was an amazing first year for me with European Waterways, so it’s hard to say what my favourite moment was. One lovely memory amongst others was one of our first cruises last year with a multi-generational Family Cruise. The lead guest was the grandmother who came with her kids and grandkids, with the youngest only two years old! By the end of the week, we all felt like family. That’s one of the things that makes barging so special.

Do you take care of the barge in the winter?

I don’t take care of the barge as such, but I get to see La Belle Epoque every day when I work in the French office outside of the cruise season. It is nice to be able to follow all the work onboard through the winter months.

European Waterways Operations Base in Ravieres, Burgundy

What’s your favourite region to cruise in?

Burgundy for sure. I’ve been lucky to cruise a lot of the French canals and rivers, but my heart definitely lies in Burgundy. The cruise from Tanlay to Venarey-les-Laumes, is in my opinion, one of the most rural and beautiful cruises our guests could choose from.

Can you tell us one thing that guests are surprised about, when they first come aboard?

A lot of our guests don’t know what to expect before they come aboard for the first time. I often hear guests saying that they thought it would be smaller and are surprised how spacious the barge actually is!

La Belle Epoque Saloon

What is the first and last thing you do before you board or alight the boat at the beginning and end of the season?

The first thing I do is to get my cabin ready and, most importantly, putting up my kids’ photos. For me it’s really important that my home-away-from-home feels comfortable. I suggest this to all the crew as we spend a big part of the year onboard. At the end of the season it’s a bit different – it’s all about not forgetting anything so I normally walk the whole barge at least three times, making sure we haven’t forgotten anything before closing up for the winter.

Where did you grow up?

I lived in Sussex until nearly ten, and then moved to Auxerre in Burgundy

Rye is a quintessential beach town on the Sussex coast

Outside of the season, do you live on a boat?

No, but I lived on a barge from the age of 10 to 17 years old

Can you name one home comfort you miss during your time on the canals?

Evening cuddles with my kids. It can be hard to work away from home but I’m lucky that my wife makes it work. She will try and pop round to the barge sometimes.

How do you spend your time when you’re not working?

Directly after the season I try and get away for a few days or a week to wind down before going back to being at home on a daily basis. Then through the winter months I keep regular office hours, so I try and spend as much time as possible with the kids and my wife in the evenings and weekends.

If you weren’t working on hotel barges, what do you think you’d be doing?

I would most likely still be running pubs or restaurants!

La Belle Epoque Captain, Craig Jenner, showing off his flambé skills

Meet Captain Craig aboard La Belle Epoque

Discover a gentle cruise through rolling hills, past medieval villages aboard the 12-passenger luxury hotel barge, La Belle Epoque led by Captain Craig and his fabulous crew.

View our La Belle Epoque Classic Cruise itinerary here >

For help in planning an indulgent escape along Europe’s charming waterways, please talk to a member of our team or order a copy of our brochure.

Inspired? Visit our Special Offers page to further inspire your wanderlust. 

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